Can you ship to Timbucktoo?
We can ship to most places. If you register as NON EU and are shipping to an address outside the EU such as USA or AUS, then your invoice will show just the bare prices with no 20% UK tax - yipee.
The invoice will not show shipping cost. We will look for the best way to send your order and send you a separate shipping cost invoice.
If you dont want to go ahead , thats fine, we will refund in full. Any problems just email and we will sort it for you.
Complete your order and tick 'pay by cheque' or 'bank transfer' - we can send you an invoice and include the shipping cost if thats easier for you.
Fabric prices are per running metre, fabric is supplied in one continuous length (very occasionally with larger cuts you may be given it in two pieces with extra given, let us know if that's a problem). Samples and items like teatowels are per unit.
Cheque is fine, bank transfer is fine, credit card over the phone- let us know and we can call you. Secure card online is fine. (We don't keep your details) Paypal is fine.
Bank Transfers - Our bank transfers show up each morning, we generally try to ship the day after we see the funds in our morning bank statement.
We dont have a hard and fast policy, we just try and help where we can. If its faulty then of course we replace.
If you changed your mind, ordered the wrong fabric or didnt request a sample before ordering (which we always stress is vital) then we dont accept returns.
Having said that we'll always listen to your story and see if there is a way to ease the pain of dropping a clanger. Get in touch returns
Late deliveries> If you are on a tight schedule then we will always do our best but the risk is yours and we wont normally accept returns for late delivery. (The post office guaranteed times sometimes dont work out)
All our fabrics are washable. but they are made in different batches by different weavers and we have hundreds of cloths so I've got to be vague - sorry. Batches of handmade fabrics will be slightly different from batch to batch. Unfinished cloths will shrink a lot as they are not washed. Natural colour fabrics will shrink in general more than dyed fabrics.. Dyed fabrics are generally colour fast but they are sometimes hand dyed and batches can vary.
As a general guide -TEST. You can cut a strip and measure then wash and measure again- that's called a strip test and will give you an idea if there is bleed or shrinkage. Do ask, we will always do our best to advise.
Can we use your fabric to manufacture our clothing?
Yes , no problem, there is no restriction on how you use our designs.
We have mill made fabric and handmade fabric. Quality of both is very good but handmade fabric differs from machine made fabric, it may have irregularities, small repairs, it may shrink, one batch may be different from the next. Batches can also vary slightly for mill made fabrics. Please take an extra moment with inspection before make up if you are using our handmade fabrics.
Are your fabrics certified?
We ourselves are not certified by GOTS or FTF (Fairtrade foundation).
We are quite small and the way we work makes it impossible to work with large organisations like GOTS who naturally have large overheads and fees to cover the great work they do. So for example if we wanted GOTS certification for our work in Kerala, they would have to send someone to inspect each of the powerloom workers that Genesh works with. They would need a paper trail for the yarn from source to weaver to dying to weaving to shipping and they would also need to audit our work in the UK. This is exactly what they need to do, but not feasible for us when we are working with two hundred different fabrics made by many different weavers.
All the organic cotton yarn we use in Kerala has certification at source.
Mill fabric is different. The cotton weaving mills we work with are all inspected and certified by GOTS. When we receive fabrics from mills, we always ask for a certificate. We can supply you with a copy. This does not mean that we are certified, it does not mean that you can claim GOTS certification.
If you are making garments, you can of course say that the fabric is made from certified Organic Cotton or that it is made in a certified mill and you will have the copy certificates to show that.
If you want to be GOTS certified then you would need to register with GOTS and you would have to buy from a weaver who is also certified by GOTS so that the GOTS chain is unbroken.
This requires working large scale.
Our basic muslin fabric is also Soil Association certified. Soil Association is a UK body allied to GOTS.
Bamboo silk is from yarn that is Oeko-tex certified and produced in a closed loop system.
Tencel is also ethically produced under licence and is Oeko-tex certified.
Please ask if you would like to see current certificates - we really don't mind and believe that we should all be aware of the possibility that people may jump on the 'organic' bandwagon without being true to its ideals.
This is a fifteen minute film about GOTS. https://www.global-standard.org/information-centre/gotsfilm.html
This is from our Turkish manufacturing unit.
The origin of cotton is Aegean region of Turkey (Near İzmir). We always obtain our own cotton from contracted farmers. Our spinning house is in Denizli. Depending on the quality or lead times we may use diffirent knitting and dying houses placed in Denizli,İzmir or İstanbul. All facilities have to certificated otherwise it is not possible to give GOTS certificate to the final items (fabric or clothes)
All of the facilities (Farms,Spinning,Knitting or even warehouse where the finished fabrics are controlled and packed) have to carry the responsibilities that certification requires. The certification is made by non-profit certification companies like ICEA or Control union.
Are your fabrics Fairtrade?
Fairtrade certification gives small-scale cotton farmers in developing countries the power to improve their livelihoods by ensuring they receive a fair and stable price for their cotton and the additional Fairtrade premium that is used by the farmers for community development projects.
Fairtrade... it's complicated. We don't hold a licence, we are too small, so we don't use the logo unless we are selling fabric imported by a third party who do hold a licence. Fairtrade logo covers the cotton used. It does not cover the actual fabric.
, We have so far reinvested all profits into the company or to help the weavers. We distribute a percentage of Net profits to staff and fund local community initiatives. We only use GOTS certified cotton, which assures that the cotton is grown organically. We only use GOTS certified mills which ensures that the process is inspected and certified as being okay.
What is handmade fabric?
There are two types of handmade fabric. First there are handloom fabrics like Texweave. These use thicker yarns and are made on a wooden loom entirely by hand. They will have small imperfections where the yarns are joined. There are also powerloom fabrics which are made on relativley small electrically operated looms. These run faster and make around 25 metres of fabric in a day. They will also have small imperfections such as knots or shading.
What is yarn dying?
Rather than make fabric and then dye it. Most of our fabric from Kerala is yarn dyed. The yarn is dyed before weaving. This gives a distinctive character but can also lead to small differences in dye shading.
Fair trade policy
We exist to trade fairly. Ethics is our back bone and we try to be transparent in the way we trade. 'Fair' is open to interpretation. We only use GOTS certified mills. This means that checks are made to ensure safe working practices etc. We do not beat our partners to the lowest price, we look to find a price that will leave us both happy. We don't charge you the customer the highest price that we can - we try to offer a price that is fair to individual sewers and a lower price to those customers looking to start a business and investing in stock. We do not seek to make the highest profit possible. We seek to be happy and part of that is trading fairly.
We are not certified 'Fairtrade' . (One word capital F) 'Fairtrade' is a registered trade mark
Can you make muslin cloths for me?
Yes we can make cloths to any size and we can insert your own style label. It take aaaaaages... sample can take 8 weeks or more and the cloths can take many months to make. We have to weave the cloth, then pass it to the womens cooperative we work with - they are called Gramodia and they sew the cloth into squares. Minimums are usually about 500 for larger squares and at least 1000 for 30 x 30
Can we buy wholesale?
We import from India and Turkey and China (bamboo viscose) We carry very big stocks and are able to supply wholesale to UK or EU or Australasia or USA
Are your Dyes Natural
We have tried 'natural dyes' - that is to say dyes made from vegetable matter. There are several problems. 1) They are very unstable, they run and fade.2) This can be improved, but only with the use of heavy metal mordents (bad chemical setting agents) 3) They use huge amounts of roots etc - is this a good use of land? There is much to read and know. We use low impact approved chemical dyes which are efficient and accepted as being safe. GOTS certification covers the dyes that are used in GOTS certified fabrics. Genesh our partner in Kerala uses low impact chemical dyes.
This is Genesh, our partner, explaining the dye system in Kerala.We have visited the dye house.
The dye house is having water disposing system with sludge treatment plant. The polluted water is going through different level of Tanks. In the first tank polluted water is collecting, then it overflows to next level tank filled with sand and stones, then over flows to another tanks adding Alum to purify, It is in the sixth tank the purified water using to watering the plants. The sludge is dried in sunlight and it is used as fertilizers.
In Kerala we use Novacron dyes which are made to pass Oeko-Tex standards - ie they are safe.
Can we use your fabric for Toys?
We don't test our fabrics for EN regs, but there is a facebook group that has tested some of our fabrics. Have a look here http://www.ahandcraftedbusiness.com/ce-marking-for-handmade-soft-toys/
and here https://www.facebook.com/groups/779808745368557/
Testing in UK is quite easy, - have a look here http://www.hstts.co.uk/pages/home
Many of our fabrics are made in GOTS certified units and we only use certified yarn .We have asked GOTS regarding EN71-3
This is what they say -
GOTS certified products should pass the chemical requirements for EN71-3.
If not, that must be from contamination, therefore cease to be GOTS goods.
Does your cloth contain chemicals?
We don't use finishing chemicals on our fabrics and our fabrics will be free of harmful pesticides etc as the crop i.e mainly cotton is organically grown.
Dyes are chemical based, but they are tested as being safe - they are called low impact dyes.
Linens (Flax) and bamboo do not normally use pesticides.
We do not have information on clearance fabrics (usually linens)
All cloth and yarn goes through some sort of sizing or washing- soap is used, soap is made with Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide)
Bamboo is made into yarn using Sodium Hydroxide, which is a chemical derived largley from ash and salt so Bamboo does go through a chemical process to make it the yarn.
The bamboo yarn is certified by Oeko-tex as being free from harmful chemicals and our cotton being organic will not have pesticide residues. We strive for purity.
Can we print on your fabrics?
Our finished fabrics are usually fine for screen printing.
If they are produced in Kerela they will have been made by hand and may have the odd slub, knot or irregularity. Such fabrics are crossweaves, narrow twill, denim, medium weight. If this is important to you then please ask for more detail.
Mill made fabrics like poplin, cambridge, percale, wide twill, jersey, batiste will all be okay for screen printing.
Most mill fabric like poplin, cambridge, percale, wide twill, jersey, batiste will be okay( after coating) for digital printing but printers will have their own requirements so we would advise showing them a sample.
Unfinished fabrics- linens and cottons may be suiltable for screen printing but you need to do your own tests. Unfinished fabric will shrink after washing.
Are your fabrics sustainable fabrics?
Our cotton is sustainable. We beleive in 'reduce, reuse, recycle'. Growing organic cotton uses crop rotation. Low inputs are sustainable. Land can be farmed year after year without depletion or harm.
Below is from wickepedia about conventional cotton farming.
Cotton, also known as vegetable wool, is a major source of apparel fiber. Celebrated for its excellent absorbency, durability, and intrinsic softness, cotton accounts for over 50% of all clothing produced worldwide. This makes cotton the most widely used clothing fiber. However, growing and processing this particular fiber crop is largely unsustainable. For every pound of cotton harvested, a farmer uses up 1/3 lb of chemical, synthetic fertilizer. As a whole, the US cotton production makes up 25% of all pesticides deployed in the United States. Worldwide, cotton takes up 2.4% of all arable lands yet requires 16% of the world’s pesticides. Furthermore, the cotton hulls contain the most potent insecticide residues. They are often used as cattle feed, which means that consumers are purchasing meat containing a concentration of pesticides. The processing of cotton into usable fibers also adds to the burden on the environment. Manufacturers prefer cotton to be white so that cotton can easily be synthetically dyed to any shade of color. Natural cotton is actual beige brown, and so during processing, manufacturers would add bleach and various other chemicals and heavy metal dyes to make cotton pure white. Formaldehyde resins would be added in as well to form “easy care” cotton fabric.
When you pay you will be taken to the secure payment website to pay by card or paypal. We do not hold your details. Your details are only entered when you are on the secure payment website.We can take phone payments. We enter your details onto the secure payment website. We do not retain your details. Any concerns, please get in touch.
Tell us about Tencel.
A very sustainable and comfortable fabric made in a closed loop system from Eucalyptus trees. There is a lot on the internet, here is one article - Tencel
and here is another- Tencel
Are your fabrics Vegan?
None of our fabrics are certified as being vegan.
We do get asked about this a lot, so we have asked some of our suppliers the question, here are their responses;
Koray from Egedeniz: "The fabrics we make have no relation with animals. We are getting cotton which is a plant and making different kind of fabrics. We do not use any animal related thing in any process. Vegan term is used to separate leather and unleather products as I know. Vegan term can be used for fake leather qualities that is not sourced from a real animal skin or leather so they are animal friendly. You may easily say that we have no relation with animals. I do not think that Vegan term is something that can be called for a cotton fabric."
Anuj from Silk n Fab; "We are using GOTS approved dyestuff etc. Not aware of any animal content on this."
Tell us about Bamboo.
There's lots to know about bamboo, it grows freely without chemicals but the process of converting it to yarn uses chemicals. The same chemicals are used to make paper and soap. Our bamboo silk and bamboo drape is 100% bamboo viscose. The process for these fabrics is done in a closed loop system.
Our bamboo yarns are certified by OEKO-TEX 100 as being free from harmful chemicals.
This is one view of many about about bamboo viscose, Tencel etc https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/category/fibers/viscose/
Dyed bamboo is dyed in an OEKO-TEX certified dying unit.
I would urge you to research yourself and make your own decision. We take the view that it is far less harmful to people than conventional cotton growing.
Our jerseys are made in Turkey. We do have an organic cotton and bamboo mix jersey. The mill buys the yarn from this company - bamboo - The yarn is Oeko-tex certified.
The dyes are Oeko-Tex certified. Superjersey is made from 46% bamboo viscose and 46% organiccotton and 8% Lycra.
We do not use polyester and take the view that even polyester that is carefully made, or recycled polyester which still uses raw petrolium cannot be classified as sustainable.
Lycra additives are problematic for us. Some of our fabrics have up to 5%. This is derived from petroleum. Also mixed fibre fabrics are hard to recycle. We are unsure whether the 95% organic cotton content in some ways balances the 5% Lycra. A difficult choice for us and for you.
Courier /postage costs.
We send out most orders the day after the order is received/paid for, but can slip a day or two behind during busy times.
We are really happy to refund if the automatic system has charged you the wrong price - please let us know.
The normal maximum UK charge for shipping is around £9/10 for a large parcel - max EU price is £19.95 (plus vat)
Wholesale customers will pay courier at cost.
We absorb some of the costs of shipping but may need occasionally to ask for extra if you live in a remote area or in special circumstances such as a bulky order or sale goods where fabrics are sold at below cost.
Goods are covered by INSURANCE only up to the value of - £25 - please ask if you want higher insurance. The postman once broke a cat flap making a delivery to a customer. If you have a fragile cat flap, you may need to consider extra insurance.
Ordered late and want a quicker delivery?... we can do it for you but we do find that sometimes you pay the extra and the times stated are not fulfilled. Remember that the courier will not be held liable for expenses you may incur due to late delivery though they will usually refund any extra paid for a fast service.
Where's my stuff? UK
All UK orders under 2kg are sent via Royal Mail 1st class, which takes 1-2 days. Parcels over 2kg are sent with a tracked next day courier service (usually UPS). Let us know if you would like insurance on your parcel, or a cheaper option.
Where's my Stuff? EU - Parcels under 2kg are sent as an international standard parcel with Royal Mail, which takes 3-5 working days, although they have been known to take a siesta. Over 2kg parcels are sent with a standard tracked courier (usually UPS or DPD) which takes 2-5 working days. Let us know if you would like another service.
Where's my Stuff? Rest of the world - Parcels under 2kg are sent as an international standard parcel with Royal Mail, which takes 5-7 working days, these also can take the scenic route. Over 2kg parcels are sent with a standard tracked courier (usually UPS or DPD) which takes 5-7 working days. Let us know if you would like another service.
Interplanetary orders arrive instantly as long as you don't mind your material being dematerialized, just let us know your galactic postcode.
Tell us if we got it wrong - our weighting system is complicated.
Carriage costs are shown towards the end of your purchase. We try and keep costs as low as possible and in some cases subsidise the cost. We don't send small parcels insured or tracked. If you want this service please ask and we will advise the cost. (We rarley get any problems but please ask if you want tracking or insurance)
Postage cost samples are from £1. up to about £3.95 (for the whole set) UK prices on courier are currently plus vat
We try really hard to get this somewhere near right and usually we subsidise the cost - occasionally we don't get it right (usually due to us estimating the the fabric weight incorrectly) so please tell us if you think you paid too much and we will refund without hesitation.
We look at every aspect of our business and try to make it environmental sound and fair. We ship fabrics, we only use certified cotton, we use carboard packaging when we can. We recycle our cardboard and our wrapping. We don't get it right all the time, but we do try. We try and pay fair wages though we struggle with the word 'fair'. We don't screw down to get the lowest price from our weavers and we don't charge 'designer prices'
We 'live' on an eco park with 110 solar panels. We use cardboard packaging for our small parcels.
We reuse existing packaging where possible.
Our premises are in a highly insulated unit on Dyfi Eco Park and the park was an early adopter (18years ogo) of solar panels which we have on our roof.
We do not use polyester based fabric.
All the cotton we use is 100% organic. All cotton yarn is certified at source.
Is your fabric Bleached?
Oxybleach is the standard for organic cotton, our mill made fabrics are oxybleached - this is a system that uses hydrogen peroxide.(Rather than Chlorine)
Genesh our partner in Kerala boile and beaches the yarn rather than the finished cloth - here is his explanation.
It is doing after boiling the yarn. For boiling soda Ash, silicate are using. Silicate cleared the stains from the raw yarn. After boiling around 8 hours, the yarn stays in boiled water more than 12 hours. Then it is washed with plain water and enter on to the Bamboo Sticks. This yarns hanged on bamboo sticks are put in the bath tank used in Hydrogen Peroxide. After Bleaching yarns are washing to washout its foam etc. For piece dyeing the fabrics are washed after bleaching to get maximum performance of color dyes.
Are the working conditions of your weavers good and are they well paid.
GOTS certified fabrics are made in mills, the mills are inspected and certified and the workers rights are covered in the certification.
Genesh our partner in Kerala writes (june 2017)...
Yes it is true the living and earning circumstances are entirely different in India. As per our labor earnings, They are getting in between INR 400/- to 500/- (£6) daily as wages. In addition For Onam up to 16% of their annual wage level is distributing as Bonus + In the Time of Vishu Cash Leave allowances and leave wages are distributing. In another side, Three of our weavers control 2 looms hence they are getting more income, as they have more productivity than others and is getting INr1000-1500 per day according to the quality. These people are like tiny entrepreneurs with Two looms at their home premises. So normally their working system is not affected with sanitation etc. Most of our weaving section is working like a free institution with one or two looms which is running and controlled by the whole family members. Husband weave, wife wind the pirns, elder parents wind bobbins etc. Wife and Husband inspect the fabric before I am taking from them to take notice how their weave looks like. Another side we protect some old women who wind the bobbins. One of the lady's photo I was sending before. They earn 200-300 Rs daily sitting in the portico of the home hearing radio/ TV programs. They are very good people with plenty of experience with yarns. Finer to thicker yarns, Jute and Linens, Curling High twist, viscose etc.. etc Most of the people get a pension from the Govt of INr1000.00(Thousand Rupees). They are very Lovely people who express their good Looking attitude with a smile and Love. I have decided to give a few amount to Mrs.Devaki, the old woman who pose for our photo, and was very happy to ready to take photos. She posed with her grand children that time, and I have taken the two print outs to give them.
What is GOTS.
We as a company are not certified as GOTS. GOTS is the certification body for our fabrics - Here is their criteria.
Our mill made fabric is certified at source. Our fabric used in Kerala is made using certified yarn - more info
Do you use combed cotton?
This relates to the cotton used in Kerala.... this from my partner Genesh
The warp yarns for Linen Looks, Cw Black Rich Blue Soft, red soft, and Denims are semi-combed. Most of the weft yarns are carded.
Well that was big fuss!! BUT... Privacy is vital.
We dont hold any card or payment details. Payments are made either through the bank or via paypal without us retaining or storing information about you.
We do know where you live and if you ordered fabric from us, then we might know the colour of your drapes or jeans.... Thats it really.
We might send you a very occasional email and you can easily unsubscribe with one click.
Our website has the green padlock.
Let us know if you have concerns, we want to do the right thing.
Can you print for us?
Yes. It's is old tech screen printing. One or two colours. Takes months...minimums usually 200 metres.
Cost at least £6 a metre plus vat as a guide price depending on cloth.
We dont work to deadlines. You need to be patient and accept that printing in India is low cost but time consuming and that you will not have a perfect digital print. Small flaws and imperfections will arise.
If you can live with that, please get in touch, we can send your designs to Kerala and begin the process. We charge between £35 to £50 to make the screen and get samples sent from Kerala.
We can also make bespoke cloths, muslins, teatowels aprons etc.
Our thread spools (the ones we sell) are organic cotton.
The thread we use in Kerala for making items like squares, and quilting, and tea towels is an industrial thread and is polyester based. We have looked and continue to try to use organic cotton but find resistance from our makers as the thread is not easily available in India and they prefer the added strength and durability of polyester.... watch this space.